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From the Collective
December 13, 2024

Crafting an Ascent: The Story of ShunYi Cellars' Pan Deng Cabernet Sauvignon

Crafting an Ascent: The Story of ShunYi Cellars' Pan Deng Cabernet Sauvignon
Atop a mountain in Napa Valley, the rocky, volcanic soils bring forth ShunYi Cellars' 攀登 (Pan Deng) Cabernet Sauvignon—a bold, refined wine that embodies Napa’s craftsmanship and elegance, making it the perfect pairing for Asian dining tables.

As the distinction between New and Old World begins to blur, especially in the glass, the question arises: how closely do Napa Valley’s finest Cabernet Sauvignons compare to the most revered names of Bordeaux? Though California's cabs may not carry Bordeaux’s centuries-old pedigree, Napa Valley has nurtured the grape for nearly a hundred years, making it the longest-standing Cabernet region in the state. The valley’s proximity to the cooling influence of the San Francisco Bay lends it a climate that echoes Bordeaux’s, providing the grape with the ideal blend of warmth and humidity. The terroir itself—composed of a distinctive mixture of clay and volcanic soils—gives Napa Valley wines a structure and depth that has only improved with time. As California’s winemakers honed their craft, the gap between a well-made Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and a Bordeaux began to shrink, with some even arguing that Napa’s vintages rival, if not exceed, their European inspirations.

Napa’s Rise to Fame in Paris

By the mid-20th century, Napa’s reputation began to ascend, solidified at the famous 1976 Judgement of Paris. French judges awarded the top red to a 1973 Stag’s Leap California Cabernet Sauvignon—surpassing the best Bordeaux, including entries from Mouton-Rothschild, Haut-Brion, and Montrose. “It was the first time Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was recognized globally as being on par with Bordeaux houses,” notes Byron Kosuge, winemaker at ShunYi Cellars. Byron, a California native with more than three decades of winemaking experience, is guided by Old World traditions. “It has been both a learning experience and an intellectual and sensory challenge to reset my palate for Pan Deng Cabernet,” he admits, referencing a career focused on Pinot Noir. Byron’s hallmark lies in coaxing a delicacy and perfume from his wines, attributes not commonly associated with California Cabernet Sauvignons, yet central to ShunYi’s approach.

A Climb in Craftsmanship: The Creation of Pan Deng

Pan Deng—meaning "to climb"—reflects more than just the physical elevation of Napa’s Diamond Mountain. It symbolizes an ambition to blend tradition with innovation. The 2021 Pan Deng showcases fruit from Diamond Mountain, a place where vines must battle against thin, gravelly soil and steep inclines yielding a cab with concentration, structure, and a profound sense of place. The 2022 vintage introduces a blend, adding fruit from the valley floor’s Meadowbrook Vineyard, which once supplied Opus One and Stag’s Leap. “Valley floor fruit tends to be bigger, more opulent,” explains George Zhang, ShunYi Cellars' founder. This combination of the mountain’s rugged terrain and the valley’s generosity creates a wine that offers layers of complexity. As Byron explains, “Having those fresher, more fruit-based flavors rather than darker tannins gives us more to play with.” The result is a Cabernet Sauvignon with energy and refinement—a wine that speaks to the art of balance.

Refining the Experience: A Wine for Connection

The elegance of Pan Deng Cabernet Sauvignon lies in its restraint and balance. With its cedar notes and a gossamer dusting of tannins, this fresh yet refined expression is a versatile partner for Asian cuisine. Whether paired with richly spiced meats or more delicate seafood and vegetables, Pan Deng allows the complexities of each dish to shine without overwhelming the palate. Much like a carefully considered meal, Pan Deng is crafted to foster connection—between friends, family, and cultures.

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A Path of Innovation and Tradition

Winemaking, like climbing a mountain, is a pursuit that demands both patience and vision. Under the direction of Byron and George, ShunYi Cellars balances the art and science of winemaking. Their collaborative efforts ensure that each vintage of Pan Deng continues to rise—bringing the depth and precision of Old World sensibilities to the vibrancy of Napa Valley. Pan Deng invites you to join this ascent, not only as a wine to be enjoyed, but as a symbol of craftsmanship, culture, and connection around the table.

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